Mędralowa (1,169 m) in the Żywiec Beskids [Hiking Trails Guide]

Mędralowa (1,169 m a.s.l.) is a beautiful peak in the Żywiec Beskids (more precisely in the Mędralowa Range, stretching from the Glinne Pass in Korbielów all the way to the North Jałowiecka Pass below Mała Babia Góra). At the summit, there is a vast mountain pasture offering idyllic views to the north and the possibility of overnight stay in a former shepherd’s hut. The peak is not among the most popular options in the Żywiec Beskids, thanks to which it can provide a blissful moment of respite in the bosom of nature and without large crowds.

The best starting points for trips to Mędralowa are Koszarawa (Żywiec County) and Zawoja (Susza County). In both cases, the shortest routes are about 4 kilometers long with about 400 meters of elevation gain, making the summit fairly easily accessible for the average tourist. What’s more, a considerable number of trails in the vicinity of Mędralowa allow for constructing several interesting loops of varying intensity levels. In this post, I will present several possible variations – both longer and more demanding ones. I cordially invite you to read on!

Mędralowa – loop from Koszarawa-Bystra

Start from the Bystra settlement

Bystra is one of the highest-located parts of Koszarawa, a picturesque village in the Żywiec County. The settlement’s buildings stretch along the valley of the stream of the same name and remain about 5 kilometers away from the village center. During our trip, we park in a large, free parking lot (coordinates: 49.6306447N, 19.4593683E, link to map). Two hiking trails lead from the square. The first is marked in blue and, leading along an asphalt road, arrives at the Klekociny Pass (894 m a.s.l.). The second is the yellow trail, which leads through the forest onto the main ridge of the Żywiec Beskids near the peak of Mędralowa Zachodnia. The second option mentioned is quite steep (there is a 360-meter elevation gain over the first 2 kilometers), but at the same time it is the fastest route from the Bystra settlement to Mędralowa.

We, on the other hand, decide to take another route – longer, but seemingly more interesting. We backtrack 400 meters (walking from the parking lot back toward the village center) and then turn into the local street Do Jałowca. For a long moment, we walk along an asphalt road, occasionally marked with unusual green squares (with a white border). I have seen similar symbols in other parts of the Koszarawa municipality, so I suspect that marking this route was some local trail-blazing initiative.

The green trail from Bystra (or rather what is left of it)

We walk along the asphalt road for a kilometer, reaching another beautiful, albeit somewhat isolated settlement. After passing the last of the houses, the surface changes to gravel, and the paths fork in different directions. The symbol of the green square once again lets us know which fork to choose.

Further on, the clear track disappears, and keeping the right direction becomes possible only by constantly checking our location on the phone. Right behind the settlement, we step out onto a green, mown meadow, where the trail turns 90 degrees. Well… it is very beautiful here, but there is no sign of any path. It gets no better further along the route. Following the path from mapy.cz, we arrive at private property, which simply needs to be bypassed. After this experience, we give up on urgently looking for green squares and simply head up toward the green PTTK trail. For this purpose, we pass another small construction site and use a rough dirt road that does not appear on any of our available maps. Be that as it may, we arrive quite efficiently at the peak of Jaworzyna (997 m a.s.l.), through which a regular, perfectly maintained green PTTK trail passes.

Okay, so how is it really with this green trail from Bystra to Jaworzyna? Well, actually, it’s not much of anything. The route remains marked only up to a short section past the Pod Jałowcem settlement, i.e., up to an altitude of about 860 m a.s.l. Beyond that, we walked across private properties, and we didn’t see green squares anywhere else. This information is important because the green trail remains marked along its entire length (from Bystra to Jaworzyna) on mapy.cz. In comparison, the exact same route does not appear on the popular Mapa Turystyczna. The closest to accurate seems to be the Compass map, according to which the green trail runs up to the line of buildings and then… simply ends.

Section from Jaworzyna to Mędralowa

On Jaworzyna (997 m a.s.l.), we join the green trail PTTK, running from Przyborów all the way to the Slovak border. The peak itself is interesting thanks to a vast clearing with a beautiful view of Pilsko, Romanka, and Rysianka. Seriously, a real marvel… A perfect place for a break, a picnic, or an evening campfire. Besides, it was this viewpoint that was the main reason we decided to hike the green trail instead of taking the shortest yellow option.

The section of the green trail from Jaworzyna to the Slovak border is a nearly 2-kilometer walk along a very gentle ridge. The forest here is quite dense, but from behind the trees, a charming panorama of nearby peaks pops out here and there. After reaching the border, we turn left and continue along the red trail, a section of the Main Beskid Trail. Moments later, the aforementioned yellow trail joins the ridge, serving as a faster and better-marked alternative from the Bystra settlement. By the way, I have another geographic trivia for you. On a short section of the ridge between where the green trail leaves and where the yellow trail joins lies the northernmost point of Slovakia (49.6138117N).

After joining the red trail, not much changes: we continue walking along a wooded and gently sloping ridge (100 m elevation difference over a distance of one kilometer). After a dozen or so minutes of walking, just before the peak of Mędralowa, a gorgeous view of Babia Góra, the Tatras, and the Low Tatras opens up on the right side. So we sit down on a tree stump, take sandwiches out of our backpacks, and eat with enthusiasm, unable to tear our eyes away from the mesmerizing silhouette of Diablak. What more can I say… the Beskids at their absolute best!

Besides regular hikers, we also pass quite a few MTB enthusiasts in this area. This is hardly surprising, as on the southern, Slovak slopes of Mędralowa, there is the Modralova bike trail.

Summit of Mędralowa

In this way, about two hours after starting the trip, we report to the summit of Mędralowa (1,169 m a.s.l.). Following reliable guidebook sources, the name of the summit (and the mountain pasture located on it) comes from the surname Mędrala, which is still popular in Przyborów and Koszarawa. The clearing offers a pleasant panorama to the north. In the foreground, you can see the peaks of the Jałowieckie Range: Lachów Groń, Jałowiec, Czerniawa Sucha, and nearby Magurka (Kolisty Groń). In the distance, we spot the entire ridge of the Little Beskids (with Leskowiec, Łamana Skała, and Czupel), and in front of it, the smaller ridge of the Pewelsko-Krzeszowskie Range (with Bąków). Looking even further left, the peaks of the Silesian Beskids pop out from behind the trees, featuring the characteristic Skrzyczne and the massive Barania Góra.

Even in the 1990s, intensive sheep grazing took place on Hala Mędralowa. There used to be many wooden huts here back then – today mostly rotted and dilapidated. Only one of them has been preserved in good condition, thanks to the efforts of enthusiasts from the “Harnasie” Student Mountain Guide Club in Gliwice. Inside the hut, there is sleeping space for several people, a stove, some hiking equipment, and… a solid set of alcoholic beverages. In short – everything you need for a successful evening in the Żywiec Beskids ;).

Completing the loop via Hala Kamińskiego

From Hala Mędralowa, we enter the forest, only to reach a junction after a few minutes. At this spot, we turn left, continuing the hike along the yellow trail. For the next few minutes, we walk through the forest, gently losing elevation. We exit into open terrain again about 20 minutes after leaving the summit of Mędralowa. We are now on another former shepherd pasture, namely the charming Hala Kamińskiego (1,050 – 1,100 m a.s.l.). This clearing also owes its name to former owners, highlanders with the surname Kamieński. The pasture offers interesting views to the west, including primarily Jaworzyna, which we visited earlier today, and a large portion of the Silesian Beskids ridge. Besides, it is a great place to simply lie down on the grass and forget about the world for a while ;).

From Hala Kamińskiego, we continue along the green trail, which turns left and traverses the summit of Magurka (Kolisty Groń; 1,114 m a.s.l.). Ahead of us is a 1.5-kilometer forest section, over which we descend about 200 meters of elevation. A comfortable and charming path brings us straight to the Klekociny Pass (894 m a.s.l.), which separates Magurka from Czerniawa Sucha. We turn left and continue walking along the blue trail, running along the neighborhood asphalt road. Looking at all these houses, I think to myself that while it is a beautiful place to live, it must also be quite challenging. To get anything done, you have to drive a fair bit, and during harsh winters, a four-wheel-drive car definitely comes in handy (especially before the snowplows pass through).

The buildings are mixed: sometimes there is a new, elegant house, and other times a cozy, wooden cottage. The asphalt section is 1.5 kilometers long and allows for losing 160 meters of elevation difference. We reach the car about 4 hours after starting the hike. Mędralowa thus perfectly serves as a short, pleasant destination for an unhurried, sunny Saturday.

Mędralowa – long loop from the center of Koszarawa

To Mędralowa via Lachów Groń

The second alternative I propose is nothing other than an extended version of the previously described loop. As part of the trip, we will explore not only Jaworzyna, Mędralowa, and Hala Kamińskiego, but also Czerniawa Sucha and the charming Lachów Groń.

I start the trip in the parish parking lot at St. Charles Borromeo Church in Koszarawa (49.6415883N, 19.3974206E, link to map). Then I head north (toward Lachowice), along the village’s main road. After 800 meters, I turn right – onto the yellow trail. For a moment I walk between houses, but I quickly exit into open area, with a beautiful view of Pilsko and nearby Łosek. For the next 3 kilometers, I ascend through a beautiful forest, quickly gaining about 400 meters of elevation difference. In this manner, several dozen minutes after leaving the parking lot, I reach the summit of Lachów Groń (1,045 m a.s.l.). It is one of the most beautiful summits in this region, offering a fantastic panorama of Pilsko, Babia Góra, and Jałowiec.

From Lachów Groń, I continue along the yellow trail, descending to a saddle, and then ascending to the western peak of Czerniawa Sucha. Here, you should turn south – onto the green trail. The path traverses the other two culminations of Czerniawa Sucha – the main peak (1,061 m a.s.l.) and the southern one known as “Beskidek” (1,045 m a.s.l.). Since clear paths lead to both summits, I recommend veering slightly off the trail at this point. Both from main Czerniawa Sucha and from Beskidek (especially from the latter!), truly pleasant panoramas of Babia Góra and the surrounding peaks unfold.

The ascent to Lachów Groń from Koszarawa and all three peaks of Czerniawa Sucha are described in detail in a dedicated post, which I warmly invite you to read.

From Mędralowa to Przyborów

The green trail from Czerniawa Sucha brings the hiker down to the Klekociny Pass over the span of one kilometer. Next, I continue in the same way as described above and reach Mędralowa via Hala Kamińskiego. I reach the highest point of the trip in this variant after walking 11 kilometers. Then I head along the Slovak border, turn onto the green trail, and reach the scenic summit of Jaworzyna.

Unlike the previously described route, this time I stay on the green trail. Over the next kilometer, I descend below the Kalików Groń culmination (916 m a.s.l.), passing through the buildings of the atmospheric Moczarki settlement (part of the village of Przyborów). Then I continue along the green trail, passing the peaks of Miziowy Groń (874 m a.s.l.) and Czoło (821 m a.s.l.). On this last one, I advise taking special care, as it is relatively easy to make a mistake here. Intuition suggests descending via a wide gravel road, which serves as a link between the Fujasy settlement and civilization. The trail, however, branches off from the road, continuing through dense forest and bringing the hiker to the center of Przyborów. Here, I turn right, completing the loop with a two-kilometer section along the asphalt road.

Mędralowa – loop from Zawoja-Czatoża

Start from Zawoja-Czatoża

Zawoja is a large municipal village, lying in the southern part of Susza County, right by the Slovak border. Although the village is widely known mainly for being situated at the foot of Babia Góra, it actually offers the opportunity to trek to many other very interesting peaks as well. I start my trip to Mędralowa from the free forest parking lot in the Czatoża hamlet (coordinates: 49.6093586N, 19.4979094E, link to map, altitude: 713 m a.s.l.). In the settlement, it is worth paying attention to the Loreto belfry and three cellars, formerly used for storing crops – local examples of old folk architecture.

From the parking lot, I start along the yellow trail, running along a wide forest road beside the Jałowiec stream. After two hundred meters, I reach a junction where I turn right – onto the black trail, toward Hala Kamińskiego. The following minutes pass with an intense ascent over fairly steep terrain (over a distance of 2.3 kilometers, you have to overcome as much as 400 meters of elevation difference). Up to an altitude of 840 m a.s.l., I move along a wide forest road, and then – following the black markings – I turn into a narrower path that climbs directly up a sharply inclined slope.

Trail via Magurka (1,121 m a.s.l.)

Alright… I should have turned off, but I didn’t. Instead, I keep moving along the dirt road, traversing the slope at an altitude of about 840 m a.s.l. In this way, I step out into open terrain, enjoying a beautiful panorama of nearby Babia Góra and Polica. I have a beautiful April day at my disposal, nature is just awakening to life, and the spring rays of the sun illuminate the still snow-covered Diablak… I am only awakened from this idyll by a gut feeling that I am no longer on the originally chosen trail. A quick glance at the map confirms my fears, and I turn left onto a steep path that climbs directly up the slope. For the next several minutes, I ascend intensely, pushing through tall bushes and fallen trees. In this manner, roughly at an elevation of 1,040 m a.s.l., I rejoin the black trail. Phew, talk about making things unnecessarily hard for myself!

I cover the final meters of elevation along a clear path among a young spruce forest. In this way, after several minutes, I reach the summit of Magurka (1,121 m a.s.l.), sometimes incorrectly called Kolisty Groń. The peak is forested, but not enough to completely obscure the panorama unfolding all around. From Magurka, I descend to Hala Kamińskiego along the yellow trail, and then I ascend Mędralowa via the route described earlier.

Descent to Czatoża

Continuing the loop, I return for about 300 meters the same way I came up. Then I continue along the border red trail, a section of the Main Beskid Trail, gently descending to the North Jałowiecka Pass (998 m a.s.l.). Locals used to call it Jałowcowe Siodło and used it for driving cattle to fairs in Námestovo. From the pass, I descend along the black trail. The route runs along a clear forest road: first quite steeply (a 200-meter drop over 1 kilometer), then through a gentle valley of the Jałowiec river for 1.5 kilometers. In this way, after less than 10 kilometers of walking, I report back at the parking lot in Zawoja-Czatoża.

The loop I have described is only the shortest route from Zawoja to Mędralowa. However, it is worth keeping in mind that there are plenty of trails in this region, and consequently – there are at least several possible trip extensions. A loop through Hala Czarnego and Gruba Jodła would be 12 kilometers long, via Mała Babia Góra – 16.5 kilometers, and via Diablak itself (including Perć Akademików) – 20 kilometers. There is plenty to choose from ;).

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Bibliography

• Figiel S., Franczak P., Janicka-Krzywda U., Krzywda P., Beskid Żywiecki. Przewodnik, 4th edition, Rewasz Publishing House, Pruszków 2023.